'Remember to be cheerful in case
you die,'
warns the yellow post-it note stuck to the handset of the satellite
phone. Normally, the hastily penned reminder would seem mor
bid,
melodramatic - but normal went out the window a long time ago. Normal
took a long look at
Baghdad's
dusty, dangerous streets, Humvees full of sweating, frightened young
men and grubby markets where buying a few over-ripe tomatoes could be a
life or death experience, then headed west, hightailing it over the
Tigris and across 400 miles of scrubby yellow-grey desert to the border
with Jordan.
Normal crossed through the razor wire no-man's-land and kept going half
way around the world before finally taking refuge in a lounge room in
suburban
Sydney, where it sat down on the couch with cold beer in hand and
switched on the seven o'clock news. Here, about as far away as it could
get from Baghdad, it began to feel once more like its old self. From
here it felt relaxed enough to watch the latest news on yet another
suicide bombing in Baghdad, watch the red-haired woman report on the
growing casualties, and still feel safe.
And sound.
And normal.
It tried to forget the post-it note; to forget that in
Baghdad it
could almost be considered normal to remind yourself to be cheerful in
case you die.
I don't consider the note abnormal. For me it's realistic, prudent
even. It's normal to find myself standing on a rooftop overlooking the
Iraqi capital, about to 'go live'. With temperatures well over 120
degrees, it's normal to worry if the camera will show perspiration
beading on my forehead or pooling in the hollow at the base of my neck.
It's normal to worry if some critic back home will complain I look too
sweaty or, more likely, one of the desk-bound presenters will email
terse instructions to apply more hair spray. Never mind the blistering
heat, the howling desert wind, the brain-frying sun.
Just
a year ago I was a housewife in Baghdad, desperate to fill empty
hours in an echoing home. Now it's normal to worry about stray bullets
and whether I should have worn my flak jacket, as I tell folks back
home about the latest wave of death and mayhem.
Last
night I scrawled the bizarre reminder, red ink on a yellow square, in
case the unthinkable, but altogether possible, happens. It was a couple
of hours after a phone call from my husband, Geoff. He was more than
600 miles away in a darkened hotel room in
the Jordanian capital, Amman, with fear wrapping its icy arms tight
around him. The tinny satellite connection had a second-long delay and
Geoff seemed so distant, like a voice from the past, as he begged me to
leave Baghdad.
I had to sign off in a hurry. There was precious little time for words
of love, at midnight, with a never-ending stream of casualties to
report back to Australia, disappearing into the ravenous craw of news
bulletins on the hour every hour.
Later I fixed the post-it note to the sat-phone, knowing soon I would
be back under Baghdad's merciless sun, clutching the barrel of a
microphone, trying to make sense of the chaos and the mounting body
count. I tried to forget the miserable phone call, to ignore the
gunfire outside my window. I tried to remember when death and terror
weren't a normal part of life, when I knew who was friend and who was
foe, before I became my own worst enemy.